After a hectic and thrilling safari and trekking experience in Northern Tanzania, we made our way back to human civilisation in Dar Es Salaam to relax and re-energise over Christmas before our forthcoming ventures to Zanzibar and Malawi. After just a few days rest and relaxation in Dar hotels, we found ourselves already bored and eager to do more, so we enlisted on some faithful friends for local advice and were luckily put in touch with some great people. Zahida, whose parents we had met in Mombasa was able to show us around the city centre and familiarise us with some local hotspots.
She also sorted us out with a local sim card which was really helpful for obvious reasons. Then came the real gems, Fatim and Shabbir Somji who we got to know through Marwan’s trusted friend and Dar expert, Hasnain (Thank You Hasnain). After having spoken only briefly to them over the phone, they kindly invited us into their home and offered to host us for the week. Although we felt slightly awkward (and a bit cheapskate-like) taking them up on their generous offer, it’s the best decision we made on the whole trip; they turned out to be the most lovely and kind people ever and we all got on so well together. 
After only a few hours, it was clear our friendship was strengthening and turning into something special. Within a few days, we developed a routine of having breakfast, lunch and dinner altogether at the low rise table where we would sit and discuss everything from books to politics, raising children to furniture. We enjoined in the daily jasmine picking ritual which Shabbir performed in the most meticulous of ways, with particular attention to even the smallest of details. Every afternoon after collecting the small unopened buds from the jasmine bush, he’d delicately scatter them in and around a small carved wooden pot and by evening the buds would all open up and release the sweet scent of fresh jasmine. 
As well as entertaining us, Fatim and Shabbir also introduced us to many of their friends and family, namely Fatim’s many brothers and sisters in-law like Kamaal & Azra, Hilal & Mohadisa & Yassir just to name a few, who we saw on numerous occasions and who’s company was a blessing. Seeing Fatim as the eldest sister to her many siblings, hinted to me what life in the future may be like if I can keep my bros close and together. One of the couples they introduced us to was Hasnain and Rema, a delightful young pair of newly weds who we found to have a great deal in common with. Rema was Lebanese, born and brought up in Australia and a real bag of laughs, Hasnain, a talented Khoja graphic designer. Together we all got on so well; Rema (who made me look quiet) and I were inseparable and unstoppable once we got chatting. I feel I found a lovely, lifelong friend in her warm and charismatic charm and I really hope we can see each other every now and again. (Can’t wait to see you in Sydney Inshallah!)In order to take maximum advantage of the impressively hot weather we frequently visited the Msasani slipway where we could swim in the salty, fishy sea, shop around for some souvenirs, eat freshly made ice cream or even play the traditional Swahili “Jambo” song on an old man’s Spanish guitar!
One day we decided to take a boat ride to the idyllic, picture perfect island of Bongoyo. It was the most perfectly white, soft sand with crystal clear, warm ocean water in which we swam for hours! A real taste of Paradise.
Then came Zanzibar, the notorious spice island bridging Africa with Arabia and Asia. As soon as we stepped off the ferry after our two hour journey, immediately we could feel the buzz of a new place which had a very warm and welcoming feeling. Luckily we were able to escape the mad rush of taxi men who swarm towards the Mazungos (white people) exiting the jetty and were greeted by our own driver, Ali thanks to Shabbir who’d very kindly helped plan every hour of our four day stay in Zanzibar in order that no time or opportunity was missed (Thank you Shabbir). As soon as we’d dumped our things and quickly freshened up at our beach resort just outside of Stone Town, we were on a mission to find lunch. And where better than the renowned Sughra Bai’s as recommended by Shabbir and Hasnain. 
So we walk into this small room of what looks like someone’s house to find a few benches lining the walls and a Coca Cola fridge in the corner and through a door we can see and hear a few women speaking to each other in a language we cannot understand and clacking around a kitchen. 
So we look around for a menu board or a menu and then out comes an old woman with a limp and a smile that bears her gappy teeth and we hesitantly ask for two Zanzibar mixes (as advised by Shabbir and Hasnain) and out she comes with two bowls full of the most delightful mix of coconut soup, potatoes and these falafel-like balls sprinkled with Cassava crisps which tasted so good we had to order a second round! After lunch we took a tour around Stone Town, through the narrow streets between the neat rows of whitewash houses and wooden balconies. Our excellent tour guide took us through the fish market, down into a slave chamber, into the House of Wonders and left no gaps with regards to the wonderful and intriguing history of this vibrant historical island. The next day was the 31st of December and we started the day by taking a walk around stone town to do a spot of shopping in the spice market and then a boat ride to Prison Island to see the old slave prison and the colony of giant tortoises they have there before snorkelling in the warm but rough waters of the Indian ocean. After visiting the world beneath the water’s surface we headed out to an invisible destination far at sea, just as the sun was edging towards the horizon. We arrived at Sandbank in time to watch the sun set on 2009, a stretch of sand in the middle of the ocean which only appears at low tide, and disappears when the tide is high, a truly remarkable and deserted piece of serenity and beauty, the perfect place to say farewell to 2009 and welcome the New Year.
After spending a few hours in paradise we headed back to land in darkness and arrived at the bustling shore of lantern-lit restaurants and shops. We headed to the Foradhani Gardens for a taste of fresh seafood in the most lively and vigorous atmosphere. The gardens were neatly lawned and the pavements lined with vendors of all sorts of fresh fish, seafood and meats grilled right before you and the best sugar cane juice freshly squeezed between the rollers with lime and ginger on request. The gardens were full with families, locals, tourists, couples all perched along the benches and stone walls with their plates on their knees getting stuck into their delicious piping hot food. After that sumptuous meal we headed back to the hotel for a good night’s rest before our exciting venture to Matemwe the next day. Matemwe was one of the nice beaches on the eastern coast of Zanzibar about an hour away from Stone Town. We started the day with a tour of a spice plantation where we were able to see, smell, touch and taste different spices, herbs and fruits, a highly enjoyable and rewarding trip as well as stopping off at some ancient ruins as we made our way to Matemwe. 
There we were welcomed to a wonderful villa-Tamani (which means to desire/wish) courtesy of Fatim and Shabbir, complete with its own private pool, private access to the oh-so-heavenly beach, hammock and on-site personal chef. There we spent the next two days relaxing in the pool, swimming in the sea and lazing in the sun. 
Come sunset we would head out to the beach and watch the sun go down and the moon rise higher and higher into the starlit sky over the gently rocking dhows in the calm ocean waters. Small flickers of light could be seen from the lanterns of fishermen’s boats far out at sea. Everything was still, calm and silent apart from the gentle slap of waves and scurry of crabs across the sand. This was enough to make anyone relax and feel at peace. 
And that’s the feeling I always remember when I think of Zanzibar and Lamu, Peace. May you forever find peace in your heart and may peace always be with you. 
No comments:
Post a Comment